Chalk it up

Alright one of the most useful tools in a seamstress’s arsenal, (and one of the least likely to work) is sewers chalk. There are a few varieties which you can by, all with their uses.

The first is paper, and wheel. Only been around at least since the 1950s (I have some of my grandma’s I can date to around then) it is used to transfer patterns on to cloth. It can help you mark where darts are or where sleeves are to be placed. This of course only works if you remember to make the marks before you remove you pattern. The paper only works though if you have a spiked wheel that you run over the pattern to transfer the chalk.

Then there is actual tailors chalk, commonly found and sometimes useless. I have had many that just would not mark well. Usually in a block/square form they tend to come in three colors, white, blue and yellow. This is the oldest version.

Next you have one I came across a few years ago and it is the one I use most often. It is a refillable pen made by clover, you fill it with the chalk color you need, (yellow, blue or white) and then little nibs that roll transfer whatever you are drawing on to the
cloth.

Of course there are also pencils.  Simple, cheap and look like this.

The other one I use a lot is friXion Point erasable Gel Pens. They erase easy, dispear with heat so if you forget to remove it before you iron it no worries. They also come in six colors so no matter what I am doing I am not worried that it might not work.

Useful tools for useful trade… The secret have as many as you can in different colors makes the work easier. 

Put a pin in it.

Decorative, beautiful, simple, handy, and useful they hold a rich tradition. Coming in all shapes, colors, and sizes who would think a pin cushion could be so complex. Alright they are aren’t that complex, they are a bit cloth stuffed with wool, cotton, scraps of cloth, maybe some wood dust and whatever else might be handy. The most common shape is a tomato. This may come from a Victorian era tradition I heard about but haven’t been able to track down the original source, of placing a tomato on the mantle to bring your new home good luck. In the winter tomatoes aren’t as plentiful so a cute little stuffed tomato would work. Then what to do with it, stick a pin in it.

My ever so useful pin cushions. ..

I have pin cushions shaped as shoes, I have two tomatoes, a turtle and little blue ones of wool that I made, and sometimes I use the arm of my chair briefly (I am sure my grandma is shaking her head on that one.) I even have one that holds small scissors. These useful tools were common in every house up until the 1960s and I wouldn’t be too surprised if even people who say they don’t have one, do. It is probably hiding somewhere in their attic and they don’t know about. Seen in paintings from just about every era in all different sizes not a lot exist from before the Victorian era but they were used.

Pincushion with place to store thread spools.

Unfortunately for us the things that get used don’t always leave evidence behind. So here is to that handy recognized tool. Off to put a pin in it.  

The Vergin Sewing, sewing pillow in her lap, pins may be in it. 1560

Sewing hint 1.

Helpful hint: Be kind to your trash man…

When throwing away broken or bent pins and needles do not throw it straight in the garbage. Take the plastic gum containers or altoid containers and place it next to your sewing machine. When it is full toss it the trash. 

Down to my drawers.....

So in the basis of presenting a good representation of period clothing starts not with the outside but what you wear under the garment. To get the appropriate look you need a good foundation just like with anything else. In Regency era it starts with the shift or chemise (if you want to be fancy.) Its job is to protect your clothing from your body. Yes you read that right. Its main purpose is to keep your sweat from your outer garments. It was short sleeved at this time and would remain so going into the early 1900s. Originals seem to appear that they go to just above ones ankles which is where they had been for the last 1,000 years. They were loose and seem to be gathered at the top, tied at the top or buttoned at the top and made of cheap cotton. You would have more of these in your wardrobe than any other garment, usually enough to get you to the next laundry day. The one that I am going to try to recreate is below.

MFA Boston

Next was your bodies or stays also called a corset. Generally made of canvas, it might have a small amount of boning in it to help give you support. The idea during this time is to give your breast not only support but oomph. More so then any other period before. This would be your tightest clothing. They shapes and styles varied and what you chose probably depended on what you needed. More support maybe it would be a bit longer. This time period was going for the Grecian look so if you filled out your dress more you might go for the longer too to help unify your shape down your hips. If you were older and you were raised in the 1790s you may also be more comfortable in this style so while on the outside you still look 1820s you still feel the support you were used to in the 1790s. I can’t tell you who would wear what because undergarments aren’t generally depicted but from surviving examples they do appear more common.

Metropolitan Museum of art

I am going to recreate a different version though. I am going for the short stays. While supportive they end just underneath my chest (or lack there of). These are also called half stays.

Muesse Galeria Paris

Next are the panteletts or drawers. They were opened at the crotch so the woman could relieve her self and first came into play in the 1700s. Ending about mid calf with a little lace and made of cotton again.

Vintagetextiles.com

Of course there are the stockings, if I have time I am going to knit myself a beautiful red or white knee high pair and a pair of white garters. If I don’t have time (which seems more likely) digging for my blue pair I used to wear  when I was doing Civil War reenacting.

MFA Boston

There is also the shoes. Here is what I will be on the lookout for.

Victoria Albert Museum

Till next time here’s sewing with you.

Sense and Sensability Patterns